An Intern's Notebook
- An Evening with Niloufer Ichaporia King
at Foreign Cinema
by
Eloise Melzer
I
had been interning with the Kitchen Sisters for several months
learning the ropes of radio production—transcribing
interviews and researching stories—and took a break
to travel to Vietnam for the summer. It was a heavenly sojourn
that consisted of hopping from food stall to food stall,
sampling the country’s culinary delights. My
trip had also been one of my first forays into recording
and documenting, and on my return to the Kitchen Sisters,
I was full of sounds, flavors, colors, and stories to share. Davia
had just the project for me; a continuation of the exploration
of the exotic, but in the Bay Area. She handed me the cookbook, ‘My
Bombay Kitchen’ and told me about the author, her Parsi
friend Niloufer Ichaporia King, a trained anthropologist,
street food explorer, a hunter of exotic ingredients and
plants who had compiled the a cookbook/memoir about her culinary
and cultural heritage as a Parsi. As always with the Kitchen
Sisters, I found myself engaged and captivated by the project.
It
was a serendipitous twist that the restaurant where was working,
Foreign Cinema, would be devoting an entire night to the
culinary delights of Niloufer. Foreign Cinema’s
menu is always an exciting combination of flavors from all
over the world and they were naturally smitten with the flavors
in My Bombay Kitchen (there’s always at least one cook
walking around the restaurant with her cookbook tucked under
their arms). They transformed their entire menu into a Parsi
feast fit for Zoroastrian kings and queens. Gayle Pirie,
one of the executive chefs and the force behind the collaboration
with Niloufer, was gracious enough to let me come along for
the ride. Armed with my recording equipment and some
tips from the Kitchen Sisters, I set out to document the
event.
Day 1: Shopping
With mike
in hand, I met Gayle and Niloufer at Vik’s,
an Indian grocery/café in Berkeley. We started
in the morning and had a full day of searching for the ingredients
for the Parsi feast. I tried to keep up as Gayle and
Niloufer navigated the narrow aisles of the market, bouncing
from one ingredient to the next, hoping that the Banghra music
playing in the background wouldn’t obliterate their voices. Shopping
with them truly was a treasure hunt…packages of bright
red lentils were purchased, bright green curry leaves, basil
seeds that Niloufer described as looking like ‘little
frog eggs that make you feel cool and happy,’ exotic
unknowns to me like a cone of jaggery, unrefined cane sugar,
and coconuts that were inspected with utmost care.
Papadam - We were almost out the door at Vik’s Indian Market
when Niloufer exclaimed ‘Papadam!’ and rushed
to load up with the Indian flat bread. Made with chickpea
flour and dotted with black pepper, the papadam is cooked
over an open flame until it changes color and is a wonderful,
crunchy accompaniment for the Parsi feast.
I meet Gayle
and Niloufer in the kitchen at Foreign Cinema. Gayle has a
long list of what needs to come together before the restaurant
is transformed into a Bombay kitchen. I check my recorder and
hope that the kitchen fans won’t be a problem. Gayle
and Niloufer have a huge task ahead of them, but today it’s
still fun. The treasure hunt for ingredients still has
everyone excited and eager to experiment and create with them. Pomegranates
are being juiced for desserts and a glaze for the quail, the
cardamom cake needs to be tasted, dal needs to be started,
beef tongues that have been simmering for 8 days need to be
examined.
The kitchen
is alive with wonderful whacking and chopping sounds and I
try to record it all. The kitchen is compact and is full of
narrow spaces, which makes it a bit of a dance trying to follow
Gayle and Niloufer as they go through their list and move through
the kitchen. I attempt to mike them near their chest,
so their voices resonate, but as they chop and stir and move
it’s difficult to keep up.
Everything
on the menu is discussed and Gayle and Niloufer brainstorm
how the feast will come together. There’s an energy
buzzing through the place already and I can’t help but
be inspired watching the two women work. Niloufer puts
herself to work right away peeling garlic. Soon the colorful
ingredients purchased yesterday are simmering and sizzling
away on the stove.
Gayle
Pirie and Niloufer discuss the menu.
I stay in
the background mostly, observing the process of prepping (getting
things ready) for the feast. When I can, I interject
questions about recipes, ideas, ingredients, and Gayle and
Niloufer don’t hesitate to delve into descriptions. They
are both clearly excited by the collaboration.
The
end of the day brings one last treat, a run through of one
of the most eye-catching recipes: ‘Eggs on Potato Chips.’ Niloufer
describes it as being quite common in India, but she also
used to think it was a joke: a way of making fun of the Parsi
propensity for eggs on everything (There is a recipe in her
book called Eggs on Anything). Gayle wants to make
it perfectly and plans on using house-made potato chips. For
the run-through, Niloufer has brought a bag with her and
soon onions, ginger and chiles are sizzling away in ghee. Next
the crunched up potato chips go in and some fluffy coriander
Niloufer brought from her garden. A nest is made in
the crackling chips and the eggs are cracked into the center. Gayle
and Niloufer discuss the best way to finish the eggs and
I try to wait patiently for a taste. We try it and
it’s delightful: crunchy, flavorful and rich.
I had to buy more minidisks as I had run through my supplies
already, and I wanted to be ready to record everything
and anything that happened on the big day. I arrive
in the morning and Gayle and Niloufer are already busy
in the kitchen. Pots are clanging, knives are chopping,
palm fronds are beginning to decorate the dining room,
and jars of green chiles, banana leaves, coconuts, and
fresh turmeric line the kitchen counter. There is a palpable
energy present and I contemplate the best way to capture
this energy with my microphone.
Listen - The Menu Meeting at Foreign Cinema
This is the day of fine-tuning everything.
Gayle is wrapping her head around every detail and going over
the menu taking notes. She still has a million questions,
questions that she needs to be able to answer herself in a
few hours. The menu has to be explained to the sous chefs
and to the line cooks—who need to learn to prepare everything
flawlessly over 100 times, and then, later, to the servers
so that they can in turn describe it to the customers, all
300 of them. Needless to say, stress levels are beginning
to mount, and being an extra body with a microphone recording
and not someone chopping mounds of garlic presents a bit of
a challenge at times.
Chiles are being soaked and Niloufer is
going through banana leaves that will wrap ling cod steamed
in coconut milk with her green chutney (delicious!). She
begins to talk about the days before she could easily find
banana leaves in the market. In those days, Niloufer
would scout for the best-looking banana trees and hop fences
and hide in bushes to gather them.
Meanwhile the restaurant has undergone
a transformation; it’s been “Parsified.” Marigold
garlands frame the fireplace. The servers are dressed
in bright colors and all get flowers to wear. Bright
saffron menus are printed that are dotted with Parsi stencil
drawings. Rose petals have been sprinkled around the
entrance. Dusk sets in and the whole restaurant begins
to glow.
Gayle and Niloufer sit down with the servers right before service
to go over the menu once more. The room is hushed and
Gayle and Niloufer speak, both exhausted. It is evident
the amount of passion and energy both women have poured into
this evening and as the staff applauds them and their menu,
Gayle is in tears.
The Kitchen starts putting up ‘tasters’ of the
entire menu—each dish is cooked so the chefs and staff
can see them and taste them and last-minute tweakings can be
made. As the Parsi creations appear from the kitchen,
I wish my mike could allow people to see and smell as everything
looks so lush and smells delicious. John Clark, Gayle’s
husband and executive chef at Foreign Cinema is good enough
to describe some of the dishes: A beautiful heirloom chicory
salad is bejeweled with ruby red grapefruit, coconut and crab,
Niloufer’s braised duck leg is setting on a bed of farro
with braised turnips and onions and a nest of braised haricots
vert from John and Gayle’s favorite green bean farmer;
it’s a gorgeous plate. Everything coming out of
the kitchen is colorful and exquisite.
The restaurant begins to fill and soon
murmurs and clinking glasses echo off the walls: the feast
is underway. Gayle and Niloufer float around the room
greeting people and describing their collaboration. They
are all smiles. I turn my recorder off and join a group
of my friends, vicariously exhausted myself, ready to sample
what my mouth has been watering over for days. We sample
a bit of everything and we all fall silent as the heady flavors
delight us. Niloufer stops by the table and gives us
tips how to make ‘Eggs on Potato Chips’ at home. The
dinner is a lovely event and a delicious success—the
taste of Gayle and Niloufer’s cooking still lingers
on my tongue.
I relive the event again as I transcribe
my recordings. I’ve
transcribed dozens of Kitchen Sisters interviews and heard
the graceful way they gather sound and cull the story from
the interviews. I note the places where I did a good
job asking questions that illicit strings of the story I was
trying to capture, and where I was silent and the story fell
silent too. It comes to my attention that there was an equipment
problem that released static that I hadn’t been aware
of while recording and cringed at while transcribing; some
wonderful story elements have been compromised by it.
I
note how mike placement is crucial for voice clarity—it’s
so clear when I could maneuver near them and when I was just
holding my mike out hoping to catch something. The kitchen
fans are so much louder than what I heard in my headphones
at the time, it’s something Davia warned me about but
is hard to get around when recording in a professional kitchen. A
lot of what I recorded has decent sound quality, but not great—the
sounds of the kitchen overwhelm the sound of the story. My
recording adventure didn’t yield perfect results, but
I feel they did tell a story and what an amazing thing
to have the opportunity to record.